Tuesday, March 27, 2012

How To: Eye Shape Series

Part One: Finding Your Eye Shape

Knowing your eye shape is just as important as knowing what colors work best with your skintone and which colors make your eye color pop. Knowing how to apply your shadow and liner to get the best results from the shape of your eye is whats going to make you stand out from the rest. Here are tricks for most common kinds of eye shapes out there, so you can make the most out of dem eyez :))


Deep set eyes are larger than your average eye and set deeper into the skull, which can make your brow bone seem prominent. Try brightening your natural shadowing and place a light beige or light metallic color on your lid (think peach) and highlight just under your arches with and illuminating shadow or cream. Your lashes will most likely hit your lids so be sure to wear waterproof mascara ;)


Monolids are flat on the surface and don't have much of a crease, if any and the brow bone is less defined. You want to create definition and an illusion of a standard eyes by gradiating your eye shadow ( dark to light). To do this you will want to have the darkest color closest to the last line, the soft natural color in the middle and the highlighted color right at the brow bone. Don’t forget to curl those lashes! 


Hooded eyes have a puffy or saggy crease and top lid that usually falls over the crease which causes the actual lid of your eye to look smaller. In order to draw the focus upward, put a darker shadow over and out past your crease. To intensify, enlarge your eye shape and make your lashes look thicker tightline, as they can disappear under the lip fold.


Protruding eyes make it seem like the eyes are projected from the socket. Luckily, the bulge gives you plenty of lid space to play with! In order to keep your lid from overpowering the look create a contour darker colors all over your eye, to recede the space your contouring. Smoky eyes are perfect with this eye shape. Accompany with a thick liner to take up space as well.


The upturned eye also known as the almond eye, with a natural lift at the outer corners. In most cases, the lower lid has the apperance that its longer. To even out the upper and lower lids, apply a dark color to the outer corner on the lower lid to tone down the lifted effect.  Always use the mirror effect by bringing the colors that you used on the top lid down to the bottom lash line.


Downturned eyes are slightly dropped at the outer corner. This shape is perfect for the classic cat eye. Apply your line on a 45 degree angle, the effect will create a sexy symmetrical look, you will look delectably sultry.


Close set eyes are less than one eyeball width apart. In order to make it seem as though you have more space in between the eyes all you need is a light eye shadow in your inner corners. Frosty whites or glittery nudes, pretty much any highlight color. To pull the focus away from the center or your eye, add more mascara or individual lashes to the outer corners.


Wide set eyes are more than one eyeball width apart. To give the illusion of a smaller space between your eyes, rim the top and bottom lash line as close to the inner corner as you can with a black liner. When putting on your mascara overdirect your lashes towards your nose, this will make help bring your eyes together and they will appear closer together.

Part Two: Making The Most Of Your Eye Shape

The best way to make the most of what your working with, is knowing your shape and knowing how to apply your makeup, in a way that mimics the illusion of 'the perfect eye'. In this part of the series I will be detailing  how to apply your makeup on each different eye shape to get this 'perfect eye'. 

  • Use a light shade from your lash line to your brow bone
  • Place a medium contour color just above the crease and blend upward
  • Dot highlighter on the inner corners
  • Apply your liner as close to the lash line as you can, less is best with this eye shape
  • Put mascara on your upper and lower lashes and comb through them with a metal comb


  • Apply a light or medium toned shadow from your lash line to the brow bone
  • Concentrate dark to deep neutral tones just about your crease, remember to apply the color lightly towards the brow
  • Keep your liner thin and close to the lash line.
  • Place your favorite highlighter on your brow bone
  • To create the illusion of an open bright eye curl your lashes and apply mascara to the top lashes only.


  • Start off with placing your highlight on your inner corners
  • In the crease wherever it is bulging or puffy, apply a matte dark shadow
  • Place liner from the inner corner to the outer corner. Never put liner under the lower lashes, it will accentuate the bulging of the eye
  • Play up your lashes with mascara, especially the outer lashes, only put very little or no mascara on the bottom lashes

(picture does not reflect instructions)


  • Place dark shadow on your lid blending up towards your crease
  • Apply liner on top lid, on lower lid`s outer corner
  • Place highlighter on your brow bone
  • Do not use light frosted colors on your eyelid, it will make your eyes pop out further
  • Tightline on your upper and lower lash line to make your eyes appear smaller


  • Apply a light shade from the lash line to the brow bone
  • Apply a medium shade on your lid
  • Place a darker color on the outer corner of your lid and really blend it out
  • Thinly line your upper and lower lashes , if desired
  • Apply mascara on upper and lower lashes


  • Create a guide with your eyeliner, line your eyes first, start at the inner corner once you get past your pupil sweep up and out.
  • Next create a line on the lower lashes that is parallels with the top lid sweeping it up and out
  • Apply a medium toned shadow all over your lid
  • Place a contour shade in your crease using your eyeliner as your guide, make sure your contour does not meet at your liner
  • Apply your favorite highlighter to your brow bone
  • Apply mascara to upper lashes only


  • Put a light color on the inner half of your lid from the corner to the brow bone
  • Place a medium color on the outer half of your lid, blend, blend, blend
  • Line your eye from the inner corner bringing it up as you get to the outer edge and extend it a bit
  • Apply highlighter on your inner corner
  • Apply mascara on top lashes, if you put mascara on your lower lashes be sure to only put them on the outer lashes.


  • Apply a light/medium shadow from your lash line to your brow bone
  • Put a medium or dark shadow in the inner corners pulling it up and out towards your temples
  • Line your whole eye from inner corners to outer corners on the top lash line, make sure its a thin line and close to the lash line.
  • When applying mascara concentrate on the center lashes

1 comment:

  1. what an informative post! you really know your stuff, keep them coming girl, they're great!